Northwest Frontier Province
Impenetrable mountains, intractable people and impossibly romantic cities are just some of the reasons why the Northwestern Frontier Province is perhaps the most memorable of Pakistan's destinations.
Most visits begin in Peshawar, the rough and ready provincial capital. The highlight here is the Old City- a brawl of vendors selling everything from tribal jewellery to leather pistol holsters. Clopping horse-drawn tongas choke the streets, which are thick with fearsome-looking Pashtuns (members of a vast tribal society), Afghans and Chitrali. A short distance outside Peshawar (but a million miles away) is the Smugglers Bazaar. It's definitely not what you'd expect: turbanned merchants in tents have been replaced by Westernised malls stocking the latest TVs, VCRs and refrigerators. There's even a shop flogging Marks & Spencer's merchandise. The fabled Khyber Pass, sprinkled with tiny army forts, is nearby.
North of Peshawar is the district of Swat, reckoned to have the loveliest scenery in Pakistan's northern valleys, and Chitral, a relatively unspoilt area of lush valleys, hot springs and great walks. Vertigo sufferers should steer clear of Indus Koshitan to the west, a land of colossal peaks and bottomless canyons with more good walks. Those intending to visit Swat shoud also check the political situation prior to departure.
You can catch domestic flights from Peshawar to any number of Pakistani destinations, as well as direct flights to Qatar, Tashkent, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, and Jeddah. Buses and minibuses go to and fro from Lahore and Rawalpindi all day, although the train is as cheap, and safer than, the buses. Peshawar is 150km (93mi) west of Islamabad.LINKE...
Most visits begin in Peshawar, the rough and ready provincial capital. The highlight here is the Old City- a brawl of vendors selling everything from tribal jewellery to leather pistol holsters. Clopping horse-drawn tongas choke the streets, which are thick with fearsome-looking Pashtuns (members of a vast tribal society), Afghans and Chitrali. A short distance outside Peshawar (but a million miles away) is the Smugglers Bazaar. It's definitely not what you'd expect: turbanned merchants in tents have been replaced by Westernised malls stocking the latest TVs, VCRs and refrigerators. There's even a shop flogging Marks & Spencer's merchandise. The fabled Khyber Pass, sprinkled with tiny army forts, is nearby.
North of Peshawar is the district of Swat, reckoned to have the loveliest scenery in Pakistan's northern valleys, and Chitral, a relatively unspoilt area of lush valleys, hot springs and great walks. Vertigo sufferers should steer clear of Indus Koshitan to the west, a land of colossal peaks and bottomless canyons with more good walks. Those intending to visit Swat shoud also check the political situation prior to departure.
You can catch domestic flights from Peshawar to any number of Pakistani destinations, as well as direct flights to Qatar, Tashkent, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, and Jeddah. Buses and minibuses go to and fro from Lahore and Rawalpindi all day, although the train is as cheap, and safer than, the buses. Peshawar is 150km (93mi) west of Islamabad.LINKE...
Peshawar derives its name from a Sanskrit word "Pushpapura" meaning the city of flowers. Peshawar's flowers were mentioned even in Mughal Emperor Babar's memories.
Alexander's legions and the southern wing of his army were held up here in 327 B.C. for forty days at a fort excavated recently, 27 1/2 kms north-east of Peshawar at Pushkalavati (lotus city) near Charsada. Islamia College at the University of Peshawar.linke...
The great Babar marched through historic Khyber Pass to conquer South Asia in 1526 and set up the Moghal Empire in the Indo-Pakistan sub-continent.
The Khyber Pass and the valley have resounded to the tramp of marching feet as successive armies hurtled down the crossroad of history, pathway of commerce, migration and invasion by Aryans, Scythians. Persians, Greeks, Bactrians, Kushans, Huns, Turks' Mongols and Moghals.
Peshawar is now, as always, very much a frontier town. The formalities of dress and manner give way here to a free and easy style, as men encounter men with a firm hand-clasp and a straight but friendly look. Hefty handsome men in baggy trousers and long, loose shirts, wear bullet studded bandoliers across their chests or pistols at their sides as a normal part of their dress.
There is just that little touch of excitement and drama in the air that makes for a frontier land. An occasional salvo of gun fire, no, not a tribal raid or a skirmish in the streets but a lively part of wedding celebrations.
Remember, we are in the land of the Pathans - a completely male-dominated society. North and south of Peshawar spreads the vast tribal area where lives the biggest tribal society in the world, and the most well known, though much misrepresented.
Pathans are faithful Muslims. Their typical martial and religious character has been molded by their heroes, like Khushhal Khan Khattak, the warrior poet and Rehman Baba, a preacher and also a poet of Pushto language.
Today, they themselves guard the Pakistan-Afghanistan border along the great passes of the Khyber, the Tochi, the Gomal and others on Pakistan's territory, but before independence they successfully defied mighty empires, like the British and the Moghal and other before them, keeping the border simmering with commotion, and the flame of freedom proudly burning.
Peshawar is the great Pathan city. And what a city! Hoary with age and the passage of twenty-five centuries, redolent with the smell of luscious fruit and roasted meat and tobacco smoke, placid and relaxed but pulsating with the rhythmic sound of craftsmen's hammers and horses' hooves, unhurried in its pedestrian pace and horse-carriage traffic, darkened with tall houses, narrow lanes and overhanging balconies, intimate, with its freely intermingling crowd of townsmen, tribal, traders and tourists - this is old Peshawar, the journey's end or at least a long halt, for those traveling up north or coming down from the Middle East or Central Asia, now as centuries before when caravans unloaded in the many caravan series now lying deserted outside the dismantled city walls or used as garages by the modern caravans of far-ranging buses.
Alexander's legions and the southern wing of his army were held up here in 327 B.C. for forty days at a fort excavated recently, 27 1/2 kms north-east of Peshawar at Pushkalavati (lotus city) near Charsada. Islamia College at the University of Peshawar.linke...
The great Babar marched through historic Khyber Pass to conquer South Asia in 1526 and set up the Moghal Empire in the Indo-Pakistan sub-continent.
The Khyber Pass and the valley have resounded to the tramp of marching feet as successive armies hurtled down the crossroad of history, pathway of commerce, migration and invasion by Aryans, Scythians. Persians, Greeks, Bactrians, Kushans, Huns, Turks' Mongols and Moghals.
Peshawar is now, as always, very much a frontier town. The formalities of dress and manner give way here to a free and easy style, as men encounter men with a firm hand-clasp and a straight but friendly look. Hefty handsome men in baggy trousers and long, loose shirts, wear bullet studded bandoliers across their chests or pistols at their sides as a normal part of their dress.
There is just that little touch of excitement and drama in the air that makes for a frontier land. An occasional salvo of gun fire, no, not a tribal raid or a skirmish in the streets but a lively part of wedding celebrations.
Remember, we are in the land of the Pathans - a completely male-dominated society. North and south of Peshawar spreads the vast tribal area where lives the biggest tribal society in the world, and the most well known, though much misrepresented.
Pathans are faithful Muslims. Their typical martial and religious character has been molded by their heroes, like Khushhal Khan Khattak, the warrior poet and Rehman Baba, a preacher and also a poet of Pushto language.
Today, they themselves guard the Pakistan-Afghanistan border along the great passes of the Khyber, the Tochi, the Gomal and others on Pakistan's territory, but before independence they successfully defied mighty empires, like the British and the Moghal and other before them, keeping the border simmering with commotion, and the flame of freedom proudly burning.
Peshawar is the great Pathan city. And what a city! Hoary with age and the passage of twenty-five centuries, redolent with the smell of luscious fruit and roasted meat and tobacco smoke, placid and relaxed but pulsating with the rhythmic sound of craftsmen's hammers and horses' hooves, unhurried in its pedestrian pace and horse-carriage traffic, darkened with tall houses, narrow lanes and overhanging balconies, intimate, with its freely intermingling crowd of townsmen, tribal, traders and tourists - this is old Peshawar, the journey's end or at least a long halt, for those traveling up north or coming down from the Middle East or Central Asia, now as centuries before when caravans unloaded in the many caravan series now lying deserted outside the dismantled city walls or used as garages by the modern caravans of far-ranging buses.
QISSA KHAWANI BAZAAR:
Here perhaps visiting travelers or the relaxing townsmen were regaled with stories by professional story tellers, in the evening, in the many teashops that still adorn the bazaar front with their large brass samovars and numerous hanging teapots and teacups.
As in most eastern bazaars, the shops of delicacies predominate, and here too you will find many colorful fruit shops displaying the glorious harvest of Peshawar's unrivaled bread and justly celebrated "Kababs" and "Tikkas" meat sizzling on hot coals, in the many wayside cafes.
Leather goods shops are the next most numerous, selling that wonderful footwear, the Peshawari "Chappals" or sandals, belts, holsters and bandoliers and a special variety of light but sturdy suitcase called "Yakhdaan".
As in most eastern bazaars, the shops of delicacies predominate, and here too you will find many colorful fruit shops displaying the glorious harvest of Peshawar's unrivaled bread and justly celebrated "Kababs" and "Tikkas" meat sizzling on hot coals, in the many wayside cafes.
Leather goods shops are the next most numerous, selling that wonderful footwear, the Peshawari "Chappals" or sandals, belts, holsters and bandoliers and a special variety of light but sturdy suitcase called "Yakhdaan".
OTHER BAZAARS
As you move up, the Qissa Khawani Bazaar turns left and here begins the bazaar of coppersmiths whose jewel-like engraved and embossed jars, bowls, ewers and plates are piled up in shops like glistening treasure trove. Other famous bazaars of Peshawar are the Khyber Bazaar. Bird Bazaar and Meena Bazaar, Jewellery Bazaar and Mochilara (Shoe Makers' Bazaar).
In fact, the variety of craft in which Peshawar excels even today is amazing and this is a part of the city's character often eclipsed by its martial tradition. Remember that it was in this valley of Peshawar that there flourished that remarkable school of Ghandhara sculpture, which is one of the glories of Pakistan's heritage.
In fact, the variety of craft in which Peshawar excels even today is amazing and this is a part of the city's character often eclipsed by its martial tradition. Remember that it was in this valley of Peshawar that there flourished that remarkable school of Ghandhara sculpture, which is one of the glories of Pakistan's heritage.
CHOWK YADGAAR
Soon you reach the central square called chowk Yadgaar the traditional site of political rallies. The two routes from the old city meet here. Parking of cars can safely be done only at this place in the old city
BALA HISAAR FORT:
The mighty Bala Hisaar Fort lies on both eastern approaches to Peshawar city. It meets the eye when coming from Rawalpindi or from the Khyber. It is a massive frowning structure as its name implies, and the newcomer passing under the shadow of its huge battlements and ramparts cannot fail to be impressed. Originally built by Babar, the first of the Moghals in 1526-30, it was rebuilt in its present form by the Sikh Governor of Peshawar, Hari Singh Nalva, in the 1830's under the guidance of French engineers. It houses government offices at present.
The mighty Bala Hisaar Fort lies on both eastern approaches to Peshawar city. It meets the eye when coming from Rawalpindi or from the Khyber. It is a massive frowning structure as its name implies, and the newcomer passing under the shadow of its huge battlements and ramparts cannot fail to be impressed. Originally built by Babar, the first of the Moghals in 1526-30, it was rebuilt in its present form by the Sikh Governor of Peshawar, Hari Singh Nalva, in the 1830's under the guidance of French engineers. It houses government offices at present.
PESHAWAR MUSEUM: 
Peshawar Museum is housed in an imposing building of the British days. It was formerly the Victoria Memorial Hall built in 1905. The large hall, side galleries and the raised platform which were used for ball dances now display in chronological order finest specimens of Gandhara sculptures, tribal life, the Muslim period and ethnography.
Peshawar Museum.linke...
SETHI HOUSES:
These houses are situated in Mohallah Sethian and can be approached from Chowk yadgaar. These are highly decorated style of building with carved wooden doors, partitions, balconies, mirrored and painted rooms. The Sehtis are the traditional business community of Peshawar. The main house was built in 1882 AD. by Haji Ahmed Gul who migrated from Chamkani (a near village) almost 6 generations ago.
NEW PESHAWAR:
Across the railway line was built the new modern Peshawar, the Cantonment, like the ones which the British built near every major city for their administrative offices, military barracks, residences, parks, churches and shops.
The Peshawar "Sadder" (Cantonment) is a spaciously laid out neat and clean township with avenues of tall trees, wide tarred roads, large single storied houses with lawns and a pervading scent of rare shrubs and flowers that is Peshawar's own.
The heart of the sadder is the Khalid bin Walid (Company) Bagh which is an old Moghal Garden. Its huge ancient trees and gorgeous big roses are a sight to remember. Two other splendid old gardens are the Shahi Bagh in the north-east and the Wazir Bagh in the south-east, all of which give the character of a garden city to Peshawar.In Sadder, there are the splendid modern state bank building, Governor's house, hotels, old missionary Edwards collage ,archly stocked museum, fine shopping area and right in the middle is the tourist Information center at Dean's hotel (Phone:279781). The Peshawar of the hoary past is the old city, the Peshawar of the British period (1849 to 1947) is the Cantonment but the Peshawar of independent Pakistan is the vast extension of the city west and east.Westward, on the road to the Khyber, where in the days gone by, no one was safe from tribal raids, today stretches a long line of educational and research institutions, such as the Academy of rural development, the teachers training college, the north regional laboratories of the council of scientific and industrial research and many others. But the pride of Peshawar today is its university, a vast sprawling garden town of red brick buildings and velvet lawns, which comprises a dozen departments and colleges of law, medicine, engineering and forestry. Special mention must be made of the Islamia college, which was the pioneer national institution that ignited the torch of enlightenment in this region,67 years ago.The road stretching out east towards Rawalpindi is lined for miles upon miles with factories producing a variety of goods and also orchard producing some of the world's finest plums, pears and peaches. Rice, sugar-cane and tobacco are the rich cash-crops of the well-watered Peshawar valley through which flows the Kabul River and at the end of which the mighty Indus forms the district boundary for 48 1/2 Kms (30miles),the two joining near the historic Attock fort.
These houses are situated in Mohallah Sethian and can be approached from Chowk yadgaar. These are highly decorated style of building with carved wooden doors, partitions, balconies, mirrored and painted rooms. The Sehtis are the traditional business community of Peshawar. The main house was built in 1882 AD. by Haji Ahmed Gul who migrated from Chamkani (a near village) almost 6 generations ago.
NEW PESHAWAR:
Across the railway line was built the new modern Peshawar, the Cantonment, like the ones which the British built near every major city for their administrative offices, military barracks, residences, parks, churches and shops.
The Peshawar "Sadder" (Cantonment) is a spaciously laid out neat and clean township with avenues of tall trees, wide tarred roads, large single storied houses with lawns and a pervading scent of rare shrubs and flowers that is Peshawar's own.
The heart of the sadder is the Khalid bin Walid (Company) Bagh which is an old Moghal Garden. Its huge ancient trees and gorgeous big roses are a sight to remember. Two other splendid old gardens are the Shahi Bagh in the north-east and the Wazir Bagh in the south-east, all of which give the character of a garden city to Peshawar.In Sadder, there are the splendid modern state bank building, Governor's house, hotels, old missionary Edwards collage ,archly stocked museum, fine shopping area and right in the middle is the tourist Information center at Dean's hotel (Phone:279781). The Peshawar of the hoary past is the old city, the Peshawar of the British period (1849 to 1947) is the Cantonment but the Peshawar of independent Pakistan is the vast extension of the city west and east.Westward, on the road to the Khyber, where in the days gone by, no one was safe from tribal raids, today stretches a long line of educational and research institutions, such as the Academy of rural development, the teachers training college, the north regional laboratories of the council of scientific and industrial research and many others. But the pride of Peshawar today is its university, a vast sprawling garden town of red brick buildings and velvet lawns, which comprises a dozen departments and colleges of law, medicine, engineering and forestry. Special mention must be made of the Islamia college, which was the pioneer national institution that ignited the torch of enlightenment in this region,67 years ago.The road stretching out east towards Rawalpindi is lined for miles upon miles with factories producing a variety of goods and also orchard producing some of the world's finest plums, pears and peaches. Rice, sugar-cane and tobacco are the rich cash-crops of the well-watered Peshawar valley through which flows the Kabul River and at the end of which the mighty Indus forms the district boundary for 48 1/2 Kms (30miles),the two joining near the historic Attock fort.
The prime attraction in this region is the Khyber Pass situated in the Sulaiman Hills which form the western barrier of Pakistan. The hills dip down here, leaving a passage sometimes as broad as 1 1/2 kms and sometimes as narrow as 16 meters. The pass begins near Jamrud Fort 18 kms from Peshawar and extends beyond the border of Pakistan at Torkham 58 kms away.
You may travel by road from Peshawar via Jamrud fort which lies amongst low stony hills capped with pickets manned by Khyber Rifles. Also on the way you will see Ali Masjid and the fort with insignia of the regiments that have served in the Khyber. On route is also the Sphola sputa of Buddhist period and Landikotal Bazaar until you reach the border post at Torkham. The other exciting way of seeing Khyber Pass is to undertake a 42 kms and 3 1/2 hours journey to Landikotal by the equally legendary Khyber Railway.
You may travel by road from Peshawar via Jamrud fort which lies amongst low stony hills capped with pickets manned by Khyber Rifles. Also on the way you will see Ali Masjid and the fort with insignia of the regiments that have served in the Khyber. On route is also the Sphola sputa of Buddhist period and Landikotal Bazaar until you reach the border post at Torkham. The other exciting way of seeing Khyber Pass is to undertake a 42 kms and 3 1/2 hours journey to Landikotal by the equally legendary Khyber Railway.
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Valley of Swat, with its rushing torrents, lakes, fruit-laden orchards and flower-bedecked slopes is an idyllic valley. It has a rich historical past. It was described as "Udayana" (the garden) in ancient Hindu epics where Alexander of Macedon fought and won some of his major battles before crossing over to the plain of Pakistan.
Swat was once the cradle of Buddhism where at one time more than 1,400 monasteries flourished.
Swat was once the cradle of Buddhism where at one time more than 1,400 monasteries flourished.
It was the house of the Gandhara schoo lsculpture.
which was an expression of Graeco-Roman style mixed with thelocal swat vally (photo by Amjad khan)
Buddhist traditional sculpture.
The valley of Swat sprawls over 10,360 sq.kms. The normal temperature is maximum 21.11C and minimum 7.22C. Tourist season is all year round. The main town of the valley is Saidu Sharif with a museum which houses most archaeological finds excavated in the are..jpg)
The valley of Swat sprawls over 10,360 sq.kms. The normal temperature is maximum 21.11C and minimum 7.22C. Tourist season is all year round. The main town of the valley is Saidu Sharif with a museum which houses most archaeological finds excavated in the are.
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A 50 minutes flight from Peshawar takes you to the north-western extremity of Pakistan where lies the exotic valley of Chitral. Towering the valley is the majestic 7,705 meters high Trichmir peak. In three narrow valleys about 40 kms from the town of Chitral live the famous Kafir Kalash tribe. They are known the world over for their primitive pagan traditions and their love for dance and music. Chitral has many sculpture swat vally(photo by Amjad khan)
prings and is popular for trekking and mountaineering.
Facilities exist for trout fishing. There are a number of hotels in Chitral proper.linke...
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